Abstract: Our external appearance plays a key role in everyday life’s social interactions. Hence, taking care of our appearance allows us to adjust and protect ourselves, as well as communicate emotional disposition (i.e. sympathy or aversion) and social information (i.e. values, status, etc.). However, some discrete body parts or characteristics appear to be more salient than others in contributing to global body image. For example, authors showed that facial attractiveness is one of the best predictors of overall physical attractiveness and represent one of the primary factors influencing global self-esteem. Make-up is therefore ought to play a major influence in these parameters. Moreover, in a previous study whose subject was to explain the reasons that motivate women to make-up, we showed a high implication of specific psychological traits in correlation with two make-up functions (i.e. psycho-behavioral profiles “Seduction” and “Camouflage”; group S and group C respectively). The purpose of this present study was to assess the possible relation between our two psycho-behavioral profiles and some morphological parameters know to be involved in facial attraction (i.e. facial asymmetry and skin visual quality). First of all, our study revealed for women from the group C a greater asymmetry of the lower face (i.e. mouth area), that could be related to a possible larger amount of negative emotional experiences. Concerning makeup behaviour, women from the group S more extensively manipulated their relative facial attractiveness. By using a large range of colors but also, through a significantly longer make-up process used to adjust their visual asymmetry and therefore increase their potential of attractiveness. On the overall, our results suggest that make-up is used differentially, according to stable psychological profiles of women, to manipulate specific visual/morphological facial features involved in attractiveness.
Abstract: As far as women are concerned, numerous visual and sensory criteria are involved in the subjective phenomenon of skin firmness and elasticity. Apart from their interactions, these criteria complicate the instrumental approach because principal measuring techniques focus on the analysis of small surface areas. Based on this theoretical background, we have developed a new instrument-related approach that uses infrared thermography connected to a mechanical deformation system. Overall, our approach has proved to be relevant in characterising the perceptual phenomenon of skin elasticity and firmness. On the one hand, our validation study highlighted an excellent correlation with certain parameters measured using one of the instrument reference methods, the Cutometer®. On the other hand, the results showed that our data were consistent with the volunteers’ subjective assessment.
Abstract: Make-up acts and stimulates three of our senses: the touch (which encompasses all sensations from the body surface), the smell (fragrance) and the sight (the process of becoming and looking beautiful). The positive stimulation of these senses by make-up can induce sensory as well as psychological pleasure. In order to understand the relationship of women to their make-up, we interviewed different group of women on their quality of life and make-up habits. Then, through four standard well-validated psychometric self-questionnaires, we examined the possible relation between the needs to make-up one-self and specific psychological features. Our first results clearly showed that makeup could support two opposite -up functions, i.e. “Camouflage” vs. “Seduction”. Concerning their psychological profiles, results showed that women of the functional class “camouflage” are more anxious, defensive and emotionally instable compared to those of the functional class “seduction” who appear as more sociable, assertive and extravert. Further analyses revealed a division of the two classes into subclasses of volunteers with opposed personnality and psychological profiles. This new classification allowed to define more precisely the relations existing with the subjective experience of women during the make-up process. In conclusion, our study revealed that beyond the simple application of colorful products on the face, makeup has two major functional implications depending on specific psychological profiles of women.
Abstract: There is no universal definition of the skin radiance. Each individual perceives it in a different way because it often includes physiological and psychological attributes. If there are difference in the perception of the skin radiance, dermatologists and experts in cosmetology consider that the complexion must reflect the general health of each human. The main factors that affect the skin complexion are the skin colour, surface texture, luminosity and, mainly, microcirculation which gives the skin a rosy appearance. The skin radiance being a global phenomenon, it is very important to study the interaction between all these visual effects before any quantitative and qualitative interpretation. Although the qualitative evaluation (besides the consumers’ perception obtained by questionnaire and experts’ evaluation) is commonly used and remains indispensable to prove the effects of cosmetic products used to improve the skin radiance, we are searching for more instrumental data. To approach the skin radiance in a scientific way, there are very few instrumental techniques. Color and microcirculation are the most studied and explored fields but these methods only give quantitative information limited to a small analysis surface according to the device used. In order to obtain what is closer to the consumers’ perception, we have developed several applications using video imaging. This technique allows us to study skin areas of various sizes, to take measurements without any contact with the skin and to analyze, with specific data processing programs, the image pixel by pixel providing a quantitative information according to localization. The aim of this work was to determine the existing conditions of the skin radiance via digital image analysis, consumers’ perception and experts’ evaluation, to establish the link between some complexion characteristics and age, surface texture and skin colour, and to propose a mathematical model to quantify the global radiance phenomenon.
Abstract: The propose of this work was to develop a new sensor for objective in vivo measurement of the cutaneous temperature based on the Micro-Electro-Mechanical Systems (MEMS), and to compare these performances to those of a classical Thermocouple. The research on that new sensor was done to allow the quantification of the thermal properties of the made-up skin.
Abstract: Make-up was created in the Middle East 5000 years ago. It was in order to give themselves a more attractive image, to protect their bodies from a dry and very sunny climate and also as medical care, that all the Egyptians of the Antiquity used make-up. For a long time being considered as an art, the make-up entered, with the development of the cinema and the television, in a phase or science and technique help the esthetic preoccupations of the women. Over this century, the role of the make-up changes with the changing culture of the society. However, central themes are easily recognizable through each decade. The natural look of perfection continues in the year of today, as with the goal of restoring youth and looking younger. The cosmetics’ industry has experienced some significant changes in the past five years. Marketing has evolved, the consumer has become more knowledgeable and demanding, and cosmetics themselves have become more sophisticated and innovative. Technological advances have allowed for the creation of multifunctional products that perform more than their basic role. For example, foundations protect from ultraviolet rays with high SPF, lipsticks moisturize and mascaras lengthen, curve and thicken. The biggest performance development in color cosmetics has been the creation of “stay-on” products which are long-lasting. These products first appeared in the foundations category then transferred across product categories to include lipsticks, eye shadows, mascaras and nail enamel. The concept has been extended with stay-on lipliners in addition to transfer-resistant lipsticks. All these evolutions could not have appeared without the progress of chemistry, which made pigments easier to formulate and brought polymers which improves the sensory and physico-chemical properties of make-up products. An improved incorporation of specific raw materials used in skincare products, pigments with visual effects that allowed the creation of some specular effects. Make-up products contribute also in a significant way to the general health and well-being of the women. They have a major role which is to provide psychological stimulation to satisfy personal desires for self-improvement, self adornment and good grooming for one's own sense of well-being and for the general attention or attraction of others. The “psychology of cosmetics” appears therefore as a new field concerning the characterization of the beneficial effects of cosmetic practices (1). This heightened technology of make-up products, the sensory interactions based on the skin-brain connection and ever more stronger claims are today accompanied by the development of specific evaluation methods used to quantify these improvements and to prove the claimed efficacy.
Abstract: The role of facial cosmetics isn't only restricted to simple aesthetic functions, generally seen as superfluous or trivial ones. In fact, some findings show cosmetics are part of behavioral and psychosocial dynamics acting on dimensions such as self esteem, social adjustment, social interactions, or non verbal communication. Furthermore, the degree of confidence in one's external appearances affects people's mood and well-being, suggesting that way a positive connection between cosmetics and emotion. It is in this theoretical framework that this doctoral thesis was carried out. The first objective was to show the different uses of make-up by women as well as the subjective experiences that go with their behaviors. This part of investigation helped us to find a connection between, on the one hand, behaviors linked to making-up and some psychological features (personality factors) ; and on the other hand, some morphological features. The second objective of this doctoral thesis was to place the subjects in behavioral dynamics in order to study the impact of making-up on the subjects' emotional reactions in a situation of social stress.
The results obtained during the course of a first series of experiments showed two very distinct and opposed psycho-behavioral profiles. The first profile called "camouflage" is made up of women who have a globally negative image of themselves and whose degree of anxiety is high. The second profile called "seduction" constitutes of women whose degree of anxiety is lower, and who are eager to be attractive and promote a positive image of themselves. In a second series of experiments, the two profiles were linked to specific variations in the type of skin (visual quality), to the asymmetry of some facial features, as well as to the use of colors in making-up. Finally, a third series of experiments, combining the different ethological and psycho psychological approaches, showed that making up allows to reduce emotional reactions in a situation of social stress, mainly among women belonging to the "camouflage" profile.
In conclusion, making-up appears as a holistic technique which allows to manipulate not only the aesthetics of a face, but also the emotional responses linked to the image of oneself and the interactions with a social environment.
Abstract: Variation in the physical appearance has been pointed out by anthropologists as a central factor in the development of personality and social relations throughout human history 1,2. Specifically, physical attractiveness provides easily accessible, nonverbal information about a person to others 3. However, few studies have examined individual differences in women’s use of make-up and the possible effects of such a use in terms of well-being. In the present investigation, we report results from complementary methodological approaches pointing out stable correspondences in women between psychological traits, physical factors, and subjective experience during the make-up process.
Abstract: Drawing on profilometry, we developed a new method which would enable the quantification, by image analysis, of certain properties linked to the perception of pigmented spots on the skin. Based on digital images of spots, an initial visual assessment was carried out according to three quite distinct classes: a class of "hardly visible" spots, a class of "visible" spots and a class of "very visible" spots. These same different profilometric parameters were calculated and correlated to the visual classification. Globally, the results showed very strong coherence between the assessment and the instrumental approach. Lastly, an efficacy study of a depigmenting product showed the relevance and sensitivity of our new methodology
Abstract: This study was carried out in order to measure smoothing and tensing properties and the sensation perceived on the skin with 18 different tightening agents, in a serum formulation.
The goal was to identify precisely the potential of each tightening agent, and to compare their performances using 3 different methods, to have a better overview of the strengths and weaknesses of each tested raw material.
Abstract: There are no universal definition of the skin radiance because every individu perceives it in a different way. The individual perception of the radiance is difficult to define and quantify because they often include physiological and psychological attributes. Although if they are difference in the perception of the skin radiance, dermatologist and expert in cosmetology consider that the complexion must reflected the general health of each human. The aim of this work was to determine existing condition of skin radiance via digital image analysis, consumer’s perception and sensory evaluation, etablish the dependance of some complexion characteristics to age, surface texture and skin colour, and propose a mathematical model to quantify the global radiance phenomenon.
Abstract: Ethology is defined as the biological study of animal behavior by direct observation and quantification of their behavior in a natural setting, or as close to it as possible. Konrad Lorenz, along with Karl von Frisch and Nikolaas Tinbergen are generally recognized as the "fathers of ethology" (1) even if the origins of ethology can be traced back to Charles Darwin and his work on the expressive movements of man and animals (2). No discussion on ethology would be complete without mentioning Irenäus Eibl-Eibesfeldt who was the first to successfully apply ethological methods to the study of human behavior by direct observation, using a side-viewing camera, of their attitudes and reactions when confronted with their environment (3). Human behavioral descriptions are often divided into three major categories. Pre-observation stage : characterize the situation (context) and behaviors to be taken into account for the rest of the study. Observation stage : collection of the behavioral data with construction of an ethogram (4) which is a list, with descriptions, of every behavior that a human is capable of performing under study, and statistical analysis of the data. The aim of this work was to study and quantify the consumers’ behaviors and emotions during the application of mascaras.
Abstract: To quantify the different properties and visual effect of lipstick formulations using image analysis system and to make a comparison with sensory evaluation.
Abstract: To quantify and confirm the efficacy of radiance skin care formulation using a high quality digital imaging system and computer science programs.
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